Wilberforce: Describing the Impossible

Eric enjoying the view of the lower falls at Wilberforce.

Wilberforce Falls, near the end of the Hood River in Nunavut, is an experience – impossible to capture with pixels or describe with words. But I’ll still try. The river splits into two, flowing around a massive promontory of rock, plunging over 60m (200 feet) in two stages on both sides. The roar is so loud you have to yell to talk. Gusts of mist rise from the canyons below. Nesting peregrine falcons dive bombed us as we peered over the edges of cliffs to the water below. As with every spectacular experience, the time I had there was way too short.

The spot of blue is Annika peering over the cliff at one of the upper falls.

Posting pictures of this place (and many places) seems almost disrespectful. They are such a pale reflection of an actual experience. You see a pretty picture of water and rock and tundra. You don’t feel the bone-weary exhaustion of two weeks of canoe tripping. You don’t feel the anxiety of knowing the next day you will start to move all your canoes and gear across 12km of unknown tundra. You don’t feel the bittersweet feeling of leaving a river and the excitement of heading towards the arctic ocean. You don’t feel the frustration of never having enough time to appreciate the incredible places you’re breezing past.

The smaller side of the upper falls.

What am I trying to accomplish by taking photos of these places? Spreading the knowledge that there are incredible places shaped by incredible forces? Trying to get people to value and preserve wilderness? Encouraging others to have similar experiences? Bragging about my experiences? Trying to add something beautiful and wholesome to the fight for the soul of the internet?

I think understanding the value of wilderness is essential to the well-being and survival of humans. The value is in the beauty, in the feeding of the soul, in the ecosystem services it provides us, in the reminder that we are small, the knowledge that it was here long before us and will be here long after us, even in its own right to exist. Knowledge and understanding are so much deeper when they’re gained through experience instead of seeing photos or reading text online. This is why I also lead trips in the wilderness, despite the difficulty, risk, and expense. The difficulty, risk, and wilderness create a learning environment that teaches while it amazes. These experiences change lives.

Part of the canyon below the falls.

Bill Mason, the skilled canoeist, artist, and environmentalist, tried to paddle the canyon below the falls in the 1990s. He writes the incredible story in the book “First Descents: In Search of Wild Rivers”. Hopefully this google book link works for people – the story starts on page 81.

A Break in the Badlands

Our tent on the banks of the Red Deer River.

After a full spring of leading canoe trips, photography, and classes, I got to take a break with Anna. We headed out to the Red Deer River and had the most relaxing canoe trip of our lives. We took three days to do a stretch of river that could have been done in one long day. To fill the days we wandered in and out of the badlands, mooed at the cows we drifted by, and tested out the packraft I built this past winter (found two slow leaks that I think I have patched now). Next week I’m off guiding again which will fill up most of the rest of the summer.

Just a quick note about prints: I know some of you have been looking for more northern lights prints. Tix on the Square sold out a while ago but they will have a new supply in a couple days!

Grizzlies on the Hood

Grizzlies grazing on the banks of the Hood River.

Below the Wright River confluence the character of the Hood River changed. It started feeling like a legitimate river with a significant current. It started to get a bit splashy, so we put the spraydecks on the canoes. This let us keep paddling instead of constantly bailing water out of the boats. It turned out that our packboats were all leaking a bit, so we occasionally had to stop and bail anyway. At one point we spotted a couple grizzlies grazing on the bank. We watched them for about 15 minutes before they spotted us. The younger, lighter colored bear took off along the shore, swam across the ice-cold river, and disappeared over the north bank. The mother (we think) followed shortly after, keeping a close eye on us.

We started paddling with spraydecks, as there were frequent small rapids.

Wright River

Looking east towards the Hood River with the Wright River coming in from the south.

The short day from Kingaunmiut Falls to the Wright River confluence was possibly the smoothest day on this trip. The river was easy and glassy calm. We stopped to watch a few muskox grazing on the tundra far up the bank. We got to the Wright River early and had lots of time for a walk. We found old Inuit tent rings, fascinating rock formations and frost heaving, beautiful falls on the Wright River, and a school of Arctic Grayling swimming in the pool at the bottom of the falls with their tall dorsal fins constantly cutting through the still surface.

Falls on the Wright River as it tumbles towards the Hood.

Paddling and Plastics

Canoeing down Stony Creek in early spring.

Spring is here, and with it (for me anyway, for you if you want?) come adventures on the water. Last weekend I went with friends down Stony Creek from the town of Camrose to the Battle River. It is only runnable in early spring when the water is high. Along the way we came across a lot of litter – most of it plastic – and picked up as much as we could while the current was sweeping us along.

Nils and I with a our collection of trash.
Photo by Greg King.

Plastic in nature is more than an eyesore, and we’re starting to understand this more all the time. When it is exposed to sunlight and abrasion, it breaks down. Breaking down sounds like a good thing, but it just creates really small pieces of plastic that get everywhere – and by everywhere I mean into the air, water, animals and humans. Micro-plastics have been found in almost all people, including babies. They’re in urine, breast milk, and can affect all sorts of systems in the body. Although we’re just starting to figure out the various effects, it is pretty clear that it’s not a good thing. If you want to know more, there is a ton of information from academic papers to accessible youtube videos.

So when you’re out enjoying nature, pick up any plastic you see! Use less plastic when you have the option, and recycle what you can. Although we can’t remove micro-plastics from the environment, we can remove larger plastic pieces which helps. And it makes paddling down these creeks a little more enjoyable too!

Katelynn approaching a flooded beaver dam. We ran a few of these and they were so much fun!

Kingaunmiut Falls

After Skull Rapids, we had a couple uneventful days of paddling and portaging. Then we got to a slightly longer portage, which would be just a small warm-up for our real portage (more on that later). But at the end of this long sweaty ordeal, we got a beautiful, flat campsite at the bottom of Kingaunmiut Falls, with a Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) scolding us for a bit before it accepted our presence as inevitable. Or maybe it realized we couldn’t scale the cliffs to get to its nest. This is also where we saw a distant herd of muskox for the first time.

Notes:
1. All of these photos were taken near midnight.
2. I was saying it “King – gun – mute”. If any speakers of an Inuit language are reading, I’d love to be corrected!

Research by Canoe: RangeChange.ca

A large part of my last summer was spent researching shrub growth just above treeline in the Northwest Territories. I’ve been blogging about the experience and posting photos on our research project website at https://rangechange.ca. I’ll get back to some more Hood River posts here soon, and hopefully I can fit in my snowshoeing trip too before my adventures for this summer begin. Planning is in full swing!

I’ll leave you with one teaser – many more photos on the RangeChange.ca website!

Our camp on an esker beside the Snake River which flows into MacKay Lake. We stayed here two nights – we were constantly moving to reach new research sites.

Skull Rapid

Having lunch above Skull Rapids on the Hood River

Skull Rapid – it’s an ominous name for a long and violent rapid, crashing over and through large boulders. This was our first portage of many, right at the outlet of Esker Lake. We figured out how to organize our gear, how to tie loose gear on to packframes, and how much we could all carry. It was a short portage at only a few hundred meters, and we completed it fairly quickly and had lunch on the bluff overlooking the rapid. The rapid is named for an old muskox skull, slowly decaying in the mats of flowering labrador tea (Ledum sp.).

 

Last Caribou in the Hood?

If we’d done this trip twenty years ago there’s a good chance we’d have canoed through herds of thousands of caribou. The north is peppered with stories of watching thousands of caribou stream past for hours, but not recently (at least in this part of the arctic). The Hood River is in the Bathurst Caribou range – it actually flows right through the traditional calving grounds, although those may be changing a bit too. We were hoping to see caribou on this trip, but we knew the chances of seeing a large herd was small. In 1986 the Bathurst herd was around 500,000 caribou, in 2015 it was 20,000 and today it is 8,200 (source).

In late June we pulled our canoes over the last bit of ice on Esker Lake. We got to the end of Esker Lake and camped on a large point of sand covered with Mountain Aven (white flowers with a yellow center). Although it was a lot of work hauling our gear up the sandy bank, the camping spot was spectacular. After camp was set up, supper cooked and everyone fed, most people headed to bed. I was tired, but I couldn’t pass up a short hike. As I walked up the sandy ridge (I don’t actually think it was an esker – it was too large of a sandy area) I admired the large ice-covered delta where a small river flowed out into a bay on the lake. I got to a high point and sat down to appreciate the view. Then I spotted something moving.

There was a lone caribou picking its way over the ice of the delta. I watched for a while – it was slowly getting closer to our camp. I’d heard about someone holding up their arms too look like caribou horns so caribou wouldn’t be scared of them and I thought I’d try it even though the caribou was still at least 500m away. I stood up and put my arms up. I saw it turn its head towards me and pause. And then it started running – towards me!

I was surprised, but I kept my hands up as much as I could while still snapping a couple pictures. The caribou ran across the delta, right in between the tents in our camp and up the ridge towards me. It got really close and I couldn’t resist – I dropped my arms to take some photos. And the caribou stopped. I’d lost my antlers and now it didn’t know what to make of me. It studied me for a minute, tilted its head this way and that, and eventually decided that I wasn’t a caribou. I may be anthropomorphizing, but that was the saddest caribou I could imagine trotting away from me. It went over a rise and disappeared.

I felt so sorry for that lonely guy. He looked so hopeful for a friend and I’d let him down.

Paddling Through Ice

Ice on Esker Lake

Candled ice on the corner of Esker Lake.

Not all the ice on the Hood River was solid. As we got to Esker Lake, the last major lake on the river, we started getting a lot of candled ice. Candled ice is an experience. As the ice melts, it forms long vertical splinters (often 8-25cm long and less than an a few cm thick) that eventually break apart. When you are sitting still, it sounds like the most beautiful windchimes you can imagine spread out over the surface of a lake. There is a delicate glasslike tinkling like a million tiny toasts to you being there. But when you try to canoe through it, it creates a harsh racket and tries to block everything you do. Much of the time we had to chop it up with our paddles so our canoes could actually move. Normal canoes (we had two royalex prospectors and a canyon) slide through with a bit of effort, but pakboats stick to every little piece. We eventually learned to paddle in pairs of boats with a hard-sided canoe breaking the trail and a pakboat following right behind through the broken ice before it could close back in. Even so it is much slower than walking and you’re fighting for every paddle stroke. Luckily we only had a few hours of paddling through candled ice on this trip.

Ice on Esker Lake

Taking a break after some hard paddling.

Ice on Esker Lake

Surveying the expanse of candled ice we have to paddle through.

Ice on Esker Lake

From the shore of Esker Lake.